Play Park, E End, Cellardyke, Anstruther KY10 3AW 

Cellardyke is a rectangular tidal pool sheltered from rough seas where the water is replenished each high tide. This coastal jewel is known as The Bathie or The Cardinal Steps Bathing Pool. In its 1930s heyday, it had a slide and diving board. For a long time only an old metal ladder remained but new steps have recently been installed, a sign of the rebirth of outdoor swimming as a local pursuit. It’s the little touches that make it so special here, including rainbow-coloured towel hooks hammered into the stone wall.

This place is full of stories of people being taught how to swim by their grandparents. You might notice multiple generations continuing the tradition on your visit, a heartwarming reminder that learning sea swimming as a life skill should be open to all. Swimming here is a communion with nature as you get the benefits of saltwater swimming without the risk of dangerous currents. It’s an immersive swim where you’ll encounter all the delights of the sea, including velvety seaweed and even hermit crabs in spring.

Although the pool is sheltered, the strong sea means the walls are gradually being battered by storms and the community must work hard to maintain the coastal defences. Locals meet regularly for lengths or a quick dip which Scots call a ‘dook’. If you need warming up, you’re near the family-run Anstruther Fish Bar where it’s rumoured only four fryers know the secret batter recipe that’s been passed down for generations.

Sources:

• Cellardyke Tidal Pool

Fife Coastal Path, St Monans, Anstruther KY10 2DN 

This clay-coloured pool is a spectacular setting for watching the sunset with the windmill reflected in the water. This East Neuk windmill dates back to the 18^th century. Then, it was used to pump seawater into the nearby salt pans where water was evaporated to leave behind salt. This stone tower mill stands strong in the landscape as a symbol of the village’s industrious past. It’s a real testament to the ingenuity of the people who lived and worked here. Scotland’s largest exports at that time were wool, fish, and salt, and you’ll see archaeological remains of this history as you explore. A short walk from the windmill leads to the remains of the salt pans themselves. Beachcomb here for fuel slag, winkle shells, and shards of old pottery from the former St Monans salt works. 

The tidal pool itself was created around the 1930s. Built into the rocky coastline, the design is a harmonious balance between man-made and natural elements, and it’s this rugged charm that the community appreciates and have fought to preserve throughout changes in recreational trends. From here, you can access the Fife Coastal Path for a walk with stunning panoramic views of Firth of Forth.   

Sources:

• St Monans Pool
• BBC

1 Promenade, Portobello, Edinburgh EH15 2DX 

Similar to North Berwick, Portobello once had an open-air lido. Opened in 1936, the distinctive Art Deco bathing pool was the largest of its kind in Europe and had Scotland’s first ever wave machine. In its heyday in the 1950s and 1960s, thousands of swimmers would meet to swim, use the diving boards, and watch from the spectator stands. A young Sean Connery was once a pool lifeguard! During the Second World War, the pool was closed and camouflaged to stop it being used as a landmark by enemy planes. British coastal towns were declining in popularity as tourist destinations so—just like North Berwick—the pool closed in 1979 and was demolished in 1988.

The lido no longer remains but you can pay tribute to Portobello’s history as a place for making a splash by swimming indoors at the leisure centre or outdoors on Portobello beach. If you’d like to learn more about the local history or be inspired by watery nature writing, visit nearby Portobello Books before your dip.